Tuesday, 2 October 2007

Coffee Rum



It finally happened I have made the signature dish of my blog, my mother's 'coffee rum gateau.'
I made the cake, creaming together butter and sugar, beating in the eggs and then folding in the flour. I was doing the dish I had so often watched my mother make. I then put it in the oven and watched it rise. Then, when it had finished cooking, I took it out and put it on the cooling rack but this wasn't the end. The bit that follows, the pouring of the coffee rum through the holes you make in the cake, is the bit I watched as a child so often.



I made the coffee syrup, while the cake was still hot, by dissolving sugar in water, over heat and then adding brandy and 2 heaped teaspoons of instant coffee granules. As a child I use to think that brandy was the height of adult sophistication, the smell of it evaporating in the hot sugar water reminded me of some of the faces I would see at my parents dinner parties; my next door neighbours, quite posh, the enigmatic and slightly troubled looking neighbour from across the road and my warm and kind hearted primary school supply teacher with her soft cheeks. There were also work colleagues from my dads hospital and as hospitals slightly scared me, so they scared me too, but when the Coffee Rum Gateau was served to them it would cover all ills, all troubles, the barrier of sweet against the world.



After making the syrup I then pricked the top of the cooling cake all over with a skewer. I poured the syrup through all the holes I had made, the brandy floating upwards, the liquid soaking into the cake. Pouring the liquid over and over until it was gone and the cake was drenched. The next day I whipped the cream, spread it over the cake and then took 2 Cadbury flakes, out of the yellow wrappers, put them in my hand and crumbled them over the top of the cake, pushing my palms against the chocolate flake strands. I made my mother's cake but somehow it looked so different from hers. (my mum replaced the walnuts on top of the gateau with cadbury flake and renamed it gateau instead of cake)


I made it for my friends leaving party. She has gone to Belethem with her husband. I knew this cake was one I could proudly take out to a party. I wrote at the time of making it "I'm making this recipe for J who is leaving, a gift to her from my cupboard." I also choose to make the coffee rum gateau on the weekend when I had been concerned about my father's health. I wrote:



"It helps to be in the kitchen, making a family favourite from the seventies


when you were another dad from another time,


sealed forever in your brown seventies suit,


smiling from your stripy deckchair


and I was just a girl watching you


cooking, serving,


answering the door,


choosing the wine, from your cupboard under the stairs.



This was another dad who ate the coffee rum gateau


with the different faces round your table


in their suits, their long flowing shawls


their smiles.



Now the door bell is silent,

the wine still in boxes under the stairs (it doesn't agree with you so much now).


and I am grown still watching you.





















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